Crossing the Nullabor

Leaving Esperance, we set off for Norseman – through places such as Salmon Gums and Grass Patch – names that were completely foreign to the rest of the family but had all been home to people I went through Muresk with.

Grass Patch was the only place on this day of the trip that caused us to stop, and this was due to the entry statement. The work that had gone into these was fantastic anb the photo doesn’t really do it justice. On up the road we stopped to top the tanks off at Norseman, figuring it was the last chance to buy fuel as ‘reasonable’ prices. While there Harry was very taken with corrugated iron sculptures of camels, which gave us an opportunity to discuss the reasons for the width of the roads and the importance of camels to the more remote regions of their early development. 

That night we parked just 16 km’s outside Norseman in a very pleasant overnight camping area. Next morning the boys took off exploring on their bikes and we began to understand how important deciding to include the bikes on the trip was, as they ended up being the first items unhitched and the last packed back up every time we stopped.

We headed off next morning (once we had finally corralled the boys) and made it to Domblegabby campsite that night, stopping at Balladonia on the way. This gave the kids the opportunity to learn a little about Skylab, as well as some assorted early camping equipment (kero stoves etc) that was in a small museum attached to the roadhouse. The playground was also appreciated by the kids.

After Balladonia we got to a point that Max had been looking forward to for a couple of days – Australia’s longest straight stretch of road. After all the anticipation however all Max could say of it was that is was very, very boring. Luckily for us friends from home (Charles and Suzanne Jenkinson) had given us a set of game cards they had made up for travelling distances with their kids which came in very handy for the rest of the Nullabor Journey.

Domblegabby has the distinction of being one of only two overnight campsites on the way across the Nullabor that has water available to campers. This is provided through a large shelter being built that feeds into a rainwater tank. Obviously water availability is entirely dependent on rainfall, however even at this time of year we were able to use a small amount. For obvious reasons this was also probably the most popular campsite we saw on the way across.

We trekked on from here to Cocklebiddy and then diverted down to the lookout that sits at the entrance to the old Eyre Telegraph Station – now used as a bird observatory. We started out being interested in making it all the way down to the observatory, however at the entrance to the track it a sign advised that it was preferred that people contacted the observatory prior to arriving, as it was often unmanned with occupants off observing birds. Given we would have had to unhitch the van and bikes in order to navigate the final 9.5 k’s, we decided against going all the way on – as did several other people we met on the way in and out! This was a clear example of some simple changes potential having a large ED impact. The sign advising that we needed to call ahead provided a phone number, however no phone coverage was available. If clear information had been available down the road in areas that had phone coverage it is likely that we would have rung ahead, as would several other of the people we met along the access way. The first real information we came across, other than a notation on the Camps Australia book we were using as our major set of maps, however was on the sign at the head of the entry road.

We pushed on from there and arrive at Eucla, where everyone was very happy to have a shower! Eucla caravan park itself was very reasonably priced, especially given the clear ocean views from the campsites and the well maintained facilities. That night I had intentions of making it down to the hotel to see if the footy was on the TV, however, given that the Eagles ended up losing the Sydney, the fact that I didn’t make it probably justy saved me a little heartache.

The next morning we started by trekking down to the remains of the old Eucla Telegraph Station (me in the car, the rest of the family on bikes ). This resulted in the first puncture of the trip, happily on one of the kids bikes, not on the car or van. The telegraph station itself was well worth the visit.

As we left we made a couple of snap decisions to try to book into parks in Fowlers Bay and Streaky Bay for the next few nights. Both of these calls were successful, which meant that we had to push on from Eucla as Fowlers Bay was a fair way further than we had originally intended to drive that day – especially given that Max and I were very interested in making sure we had plenty of opportunities to look out over the cliffs

of the bight.

To add to the length of the day we also decided to visit the Head of the Bight – a small development that is predominantly built around whale sightings, but which was still well worth the visit even in non-whale spotting season. While the views aren’t as spectacular as at other points, the information at the centre was interesting and the people running it very friendly and accommodating. The only mistake we made was in stopping for lunch at the Nullabor roadhouse just prior to making our way to the Head of the Bight. When we arrived we found we could have had a mixture of fresh toasted sandwiches and home made scones for a fraction of the price of the roadhouse food.

After leaving here we made our way directly for Fowlers Bay, and arrived at our destination fro the first time in the dark! something we intend to do as little as possible as we missed seeing anything of the entry at all and then had to set up at a time we would be preferring to ready the kids for bed. It was worth it however to ensure we spent time on the bight – in retrospect we could have probably overnighted half way.